A Visit to Ireland

Irish field filled with sheep
View of Ben Bulben from Drumcliffe, County Sligo
This summer I visited Ireland, the home of my grandparents, for the first time. The experience left me wondering why I had waited so long. The beauty of the landscape and the welcoming kindness of the people were overwhelming. We stayed in the small village of Drumcliffe, north of Sligo, in the west of Ireland. This is the country beloved by W. B. Yeats, the subject of many of his poems, and the place where he is buried. It was an emotional experience to visit the great poet’s grave in the churchyard of St. Columba’s. The simple stone bears the epitaph he wrote himself in one of his last poems, Under Ben Bulben.

Quote - "Cast a cold on life, on death. Horseman pass by. W.B. Yeats June 13, 1965 - January 28, 1939

To prepare for my trip, I brushed up on Irish history with The Story of Ireland by Neil Hegarty and read the new two-volume biography of Yeats by R. F. Foster. My own college copy of Yeats’ poems, The Collected Poems of W. B. Yeats edited by Richard J. Finneran, was so battered and falling apart that I had to get a new one to take with me. .

Celtic cross at ruins of an Irish abbey
Ruins of an abbey on the island of Inishmurray
Once in Ireland, we were so busy visiting ancient Celtic sites, ruins of medieval abbeys and castles, stunning scenery on the Wild Atlantic Way, and of course pubs, that I had little time for reading. But since returning home I’ve extended my visit vicariously by reading some new Irish novels. Here is a sampling:

Eggshells by Catriona Lally
This debut is a finalist for Irish Book of the Year. Lonely Vivian wanders the streets of Dublin longing for a friend. Told by her parents that she was a changeling “left by the fairies,” she has never quite fit into the real world. In desperation she advertises for a friend, who must be named Penelope. When a Penelope answers the ad, Vivian is drawn away from her search for a portal to the fairy world. Whimsical and touching.

Book cover of Grace by Paul Lynch
Grace by Paul Lynch
This historical novel is not for the faint hearted. It is a searing journey through Ireland at the time of the potato famine in the company of Grace, a teenage girl whose mother sends her away from home dressed as a boy so she can get work and perhaps survive. Told in a lyrical language with the weight of ancient myth, this is an unflinching portrait of the sufferings of the Irish people and their desperate struggle to survive.

The Heart’s Invisible Furies by John Boyne
The new novel by the author of The Boy in the Striped Pajamas is the story of one man’s life in Ireland from the 1940’s to the present. We meet Cyril Avery before he is born, when his teenage pregnant mother is denounced by the priest and banished from her village. In Dublin she gives her baby up for adoption to the Averys, an eccentric couple who constantly remind Cyril that he is not a “real Avery.” Dickensian in scope and spirit, brimming with irreverent humor and pathos, this is an indelible portrait of Irish life through decades of change.

Himself by Jess Kidd
The comic tale of an orphan’s quest to find the truth about the mother who may or may not have given him up willingly. Mahoney returns to his birth village of Mulderigg, unleashing a chaotic blend of gossip, intrigue, murder, and hauntings.  A very Irish mix of humor, eccentric characters, and unexpected plot twists make for a completely captivating read.

A Prayer for the Damned by Peter Tremayne
For mystery fans I can recommend two wonderful, though quite different, series set in Ireland:

Peter Tremayne is a pseudonym of Celtic scholar Peter B. Ellis. He writes the Sister Fidelma series, set in ancient Ireland. The heroine and amateur detective is a nun trained in the 7th century Brehon law system. Readers can learn about ancient Ireland while enjoying these well-written and intricately plotted mysteries.

Fast-forward to the 21st century and Ken Bruen’s hard edged series that has been dubbed “Hibernian Noir.” The protagonist Jack Taylor, fired by the Garda, the Irish Police, for drinking, is now a private detective in Galway. These mysteries take us into a world of gangsters and murderers far from the cozy image of tourist Ireland.

To discover more Irish reading, check out this list of contemporary authors. And don’t forget the classics!

Léitheoireacht shona! (that's Happy Reading in Gaelic).

Woman looking over the top of a book
Rita T.

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